From: Don Kinloch (x2979) To: pfaffies@listserv.embroideryclubs.com Subject: Re: PFAFF: Metallic Thread Problems ... and fixes! Date: Friday, November 22, 1996 9:21 AM I've noticed a number of us are having, or have had, problems with metallic thread or specialty threads. I thought I'd try to summarize everyone's comments here. As well, I'm going to collect everyone's comments and keep adding to this list - and when I notice someone having problems again, I'll send them the whole list! Pretty clever, don't you think? Good dog, have a biscuit! This may come across as my own style, but really very few of the comments are my own - they are what I've learned from all of you, so I'm throwing it back in as one (hopefully helpful) resource. Correcting Metallic and other Thread Problems First - ALWAYS be familiar with your sewing machine owner's manual, whatever brand you own! CORRECT NEEDLE Metallic threads require the correct needle. You MUST use a "Metallica" or "Embroidery" or "Long eye" or "topstitch" needle; "Metallica" are usually best. "Metallica" have a longer eye, and I believe a special coating in the eye to reduce wear-and-tear on the metal needle. Go figure - put a piece of tinfoil in your mouth. Chew. How long is it before you spit it out? The needle feels the same way. Good quality metallic threads actually contain metal, although most are now made with Mylar(c) a type of plastic that is coated with a metallic finish, and then spun with the thread to produce that attractive finish. It also acts like a tiny file on the eye of the needle, scratching and burring as it goes along. You will find if you are doing a lot of sewing that the needle you choose to use with metallic threads wear out much more quickly than regular sewing. How will you be able to tell? When the thread constantly starts to catch, snarl and break - try to change the needle. Look at a piece of thread with a magnifying glass; rub it between your fingers. That scratchy feeling is what causes your machine problems - and you headaches! NEEDLE SIZE ALWAYS the first thing to consider when beginning a project (yes, even before imagining how wonderful you will look!). Always do a test swatch before you begin the project unless, of course, you prefer to enjoy the stress and anxiety of picking out sewing mishaps. Choose the correct needle size by trying the different sizes in your test fabric. Look at the stitch lines and/or designs carefully - you WILL notice a difference. This advice goes for metallic thread or plain sewing thread. As a very general rule, finer fabrics require a finer needle; heavier fabrics, or many layers, require a heavier needle. You should always have a selection of different needles in different sizes available - it makes ENJOYING sewing so much easier. Replace the needle FREQUENTLY. On normal threads, usually after 6 - 8 hours of sewing; or at least a new needle for every project. Specialty threads or embroidery - 4 to 6 hours or whenever the needle thread breaks, snarls, or sends you into a psychotic episode. Don't accept your husband's offer to "sharpen" the needle for you, or figure that you can sew with the same needle for months on end; it simply won't work. You've spent a few thousand dollars on a magestic machine, spend a few pennies on the (correct) needles and save yourself some time. The tiniest, microscopic "nick" on a needle can cause big problems on specialty threads or your sewing projects. One of the first things to check on a sewing problem with no apparent answer is the needle. When you are satisfied with the results of your test swatch, be sure you have enough supplies (thread, needles) on hand. Try to purchase needles in packs of varying sizes (if you don't think you'll need more than one or two to complete a project). ALWAYS have a spare in the size you require. Remember that "Universal" needles won't work on every project and are not the best needles to use anyway! Shred, shred, shred. This could be a sign the need is too small for the thread - go up a size and try again. NEEDLE POSITION Does your machine have a varying needle position? Try changing it a "hair" one way or another. Depending upon the bobbin system on the brand you are using, the thread may be getting "caught up". Apparently, Pfaffs are notorious for this. If you machine is new, as it "settles in", or during the last project when you yanked on the fabric to release a jam, the needle may have nicked the hook on the rotary bobbin system, causing a microscopic nick that spells death to metallic threads, in that particular needle position. Move the needle to a different position and try. If your results seem better, record the needle position for future reference and mention it to the repair person on your next annual checkup. THREAD "BOUNCE" and "PUDDLE" Some threads bounce coming off the spool. Some threads puddle. Metallic threads tend to "bounce" and can sometimes bounce right out of the tension discs, but this isn't a usual occurrence. Depending on your personal sewing preference, you may decide to have the thread in the machine horizontal or vertical spool holder on top of, or beside, the machine. Bouncy or spiraly threads usually sew better if you can somehow straighten them before you use them - which means using the "hooks" under the lid of a Pfaff to assist the thread in straightening out, or a spool holder beside the machine. It may also mean sewing slower than you normally do. If the thread "puddles" or just falls off the spool into the machine, it will probably tangle and produce a jam even before it gets to the needle (rayon thread). Use a horizontal holder, or a "spool net". You may have metallic thread on the wrong way if it is snagging and twisting. Pull out two feet of thread from the spool, and fold it on to itself. Does it twist itself into a "rope"? That built-in tension in the thread can cause problems. Turn the spool so that the thread comes off from the other direction, or do what you can to "flatten" the thread before it gets to the tension using some of the above methods. HAVE A SHOWER WITH YOUR THREAD Strange, but true. Thread can dry out and become old and brittle (just like us!), and becomes less forgiving than new thread. When next you have a shower or a steamy hot bath, take your favorite thread with you and place it somewhere out of harm's reach where it can watch. The humidity of the bathroom will rise and will slightly moisturize the thread, making it easier handling and improve its disposition. I keep specialty threads, ESPECIALLY natural fibre threads, in a sealed plastic container away from direct heat and light. SEWER'S AIDS Basically, these are types of lubricants to help the thread slip through the machine (lewd!). Many have reported good results - they are usually applied to the thread via a small sponge stuck to the machine moistened with a couple of drops of the lubricant every so often. The thread passes over or through the sponge. Before you consider using one, be sure it is compatible with your machine, thread, fabric, and YOU. Many are allergic to it (I am) and it could cause problems with the electronics of your computerized machine and some manufacturers recommend they not be used - it could void your warranty. Keep this and other sewing liquid aids well away from small children and pets. TENSION Breathe in deeply, exhale slowly. Oh, sorry. Wrong tension. The tension discs in your machine are what control the quality of your stitch and the handling of your thread. Follow threading instructions for your machine precisely, as well as unthreading - which may be more important. On Pfaff machines, when unthreading or rethreading, snip the thread close to the intake to the tension, and PULL the thread from the machine via the NEEDLE end, not from the top. This will act like dental floss to remove lint and gipe from the innards of your machine, rather than pulling stuff into the machine. If you have a thread snarl at the top or tension end, CAREFULLY remove it. You don't want bits of thread and waste falling into the tension end. They could get stuck between the discs which will TOTALLY screw up the tension on a Pfaff machine. Slowly and smoothly remove unwanted thread from the discs from the botton, and make sure you raise the presser foot first, to release the tension. When newly threaded, raise the presser foot once or twice to be sure the discs have grabbed the thread - gently, be sure you don't drop the lever or let it snap. This is especially important when in embroidery mode or when using the Creative Fantasy unit on the Pfaff 7570. Specialty threads are hard on the tension discs over a long period of time - so is sewing. Nothing lasts forever - so don't count on the tension on your machine, any machine, being consistent for life. You may even have to change the tension during sewing once in awhile. If you are having constant problems, or sewing with a very high tension and still getting poor results, take the machine to your repairperson for a visit and checkup. Play with the tension - don't take anyone's tension advice as gospel, even though you have the same machine and the tensions should be calibrated the same, they usually aren't for any number of reasons. Its always best to try many different tensions, and keep note of what you have tried. If your tension seems way out of wack, you should take your machine for a visit to a reputable dealer. QUALITY THREAD v. CHEAP THREAD What is a sewn project without the thread? Scraps - that's what! We seem to always think in terms of fabric when really without the thread, that's all we have. Be good to yourself and your machine and deal with only quality, brand-name threads that you and your machine like. Yes, your machine plays a very important part in this selection - my 7570 tends to favor one brand of thread over another, and thus - so do I. Natural fibres of cotton, silk and linen (if you can find it anymore) sew better seams with greater quality stitches than polyester does. Polyester tends to be great for embroidery in the bobbin, and on synthetic fabrics. Personal preference and taste also plays a big part. Always use quality notions - don't skimp. Remember, the world can't tell - but we sewers can! Bargain thread seldom is a bargain. It can be old, brittle and dry and more of a headache than a saving. I only use "bargain" thread in a serger which tends to be more forgiving in thread quality. VACCUUM My machine is kept scrupuliously clean and oiled. After 8 hours of sewing on it, out comes the vaccuum with the upholstery brush, suction lowered, and I vaccuum out the bobbin area (remove the bobbin and case first) and all over where lint is or where thread bunnies hide. I do this more frequently if I'm sewing on something that shreds or molts or makes a mess. LOOK! A FLYING SEWING MACHINE! Everyone duck. Mom's in a bad mood. And is it any wonder? If it is clear that it just isn't going to be a sewing day, don't make it one. Try absolutely everything you can think of above when using specialized threads to get things to work to solve the problem. Try changing at least two needle sizes up or down to be SURE you have the correct size, and that you haven't ended up with a "bum" needle. Go for a break, open a window, get some tea. Relax and think and then try again. You think differently when you're frustrated than when you're relaxed and ready for a challenge. Try a different brand of thread. Finally, if none of the above, or different combinations of the above, don't work, check your manual and call the dealer. Your machine may need a check up and adjustment. My machine gets a cleaning and adjustment every year. I can honestly say, I have never had a constant or unsolvable problem (yet!) on metallic or specialty threads using any combination of the methods above - I hope they work for you! Cheers! Don Kinloch Network: DKINLOCH InterNet: DKINLOCH@claude.capcollege.bc.ca Telephone: (604) 984-4979 **********************************************************